A skincare routine by skin type: how to tell yours, and the three steps that matter

Skincare advice online often starts with ten steps. Dermatologists usually start with three: a gentle cleanser, a moisturizer and a sunscreen, chosen to suit your skin. Everything else is optional. The hard part is the "chosen to suit your skin" bit, because skin type is easy to misjudge, and it changes with age, hormones, medication and the climate you live in.
- The American Academy of Dermatology describes five skin types: sensitive, normal, dry, oily and combination.
- A simple test: wash with a gentle cleanser, pat dry, apply nothing, and look at your skin after about 30 minutes.
- Every type needs the same three steps. What changes is the texture and strength of each product.
- Skin type isn't fixed. A move to a different climate can shift it within weeks.
The five types
- Normal: clear, not sensitive, neither noticeably oily nor dry.
- Dry: flaky, itchy, rough or tight, especially after washing.
- Oily: shiny and greasy, often with larger visible pores and a tendency to breakouts.
- Combination: dry in some areas (often cheeks) and oily in others (often the forehead, nose and chin, the "T-zone").
- Sensitive: stings, burns or reddens easily after using products. Sensitive skin can also be dry, oily or combination.
Finding your type: the wash test
- Wash your face with a gentle cleanser and lukewarm water. Pat dry.
- Apply nothing and wait about 30 minutes. Stay indoors, away from fans and heaters.
- Look and feel. Shiny all over suggests oily skin. Shiny only on the T-zone suggests combination. Tight, rough or flaky suggests dry. Comfortable and neither shiny nor tight suggests normal.
- Think back. If products often sting or make you red, add "sensitive" to the result.
Do the test on an ordinary day, not after sun, exercise or a new product. If you have recently moved, repeat it after a month; the result may change.
The three-step routine for every type
| Type | Cleanser | Moisturizer | Sunscreen |
|---|---|---|---|
| Normal | Gentle cream or gel cleanser | Lotion | Broad-spectrum SPF 30+, any texture you like |
| Dry | Creamy, non-foaming, fragrance-free | Cream or ointment, applied to damp skin | Moisturizing lotion or cream SPF 30+ |
| Oily | Mild foaming cleanser | Light, oil-free, "noncomedogenic" gel or lotion | Gel or fluid SPF 30+, noncomedogenic |
| Combination | Mild gel cleanser | Light lotion overall, a little cream on dry areas | Fluid SPF 30+ |
| Sensitive | Very gentle, fragrance-free | Short ingredient list, fragrance-free | Mineral (zinc oxide, titanium dioxide) SPF 30+ often tolerated best |
Morning
- Cleanse or rinse. Many people with dry or sensitive skin only need water in the morning.
- Moisturize. Optional for some oily skin in humid weather, if the sunscreen is moisturizing enough.
- Sunscreen. Broad-spectrum, SPF 30 or higher, water-resistant if you will sweat, as the AAD recommends. About half a teaspoon for face and neck.
Evening
- Cleanse. Remove sunscreen, makeup and sweat. Double cleansing (an oil or balm first, then a regular cleanser) can help with water-resistant sunscreen or heavy makeup, but it is not essential.
- Treatment (optional). One active, chosen for one goal: a retinoid for acne or signs of aging, an acid for texture, benzoyl peroxide for breakouts.
- Moisturize.
Adding actives, by goal
- Breakouts: benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid or adapalene. See the routine for oily and acne-prone skin.
- Dryness and tightness: humectants (glycerin, hyaluronic acid) and barrier lipids (ceramides), not more actives. See the routine for dry skin.
- Redness and reactivity: fewer products, fragrance-free, niacinamide at low strength. See the routine for sensitive skin.
- Uneven tone and fine lines: sunscreen first, then a retinoid, an AHA or niacinamide.
Add one new product at a time, patch test it first, and wait several weeks before judging. The AAD notes that acne treatments typically take 6 to 8 weeks to show results.
Climate changes your type
A person who is "combination" in a temperate city may be oily in Kuala Lumpur and dry in a Canadian winter. Indoor air matters too: air-conditioning and central heating both dry the air. If you live in a hot, humid place, our guide to skincare in a hot, humid climate adapts the routine above.
Skin type changes over a lifetime
Oil production tends to be highest in the teenage years and early adulthood, and to fall with age, so many people who were oily at twenty are normal or dry at fifty. Pregnancy, menopause, hormonal contraception and some medications, including acne treatments and retinoids themselves, can all change how oily, dry or reactive skin feels. That is why the wash test is worth repeating every year or so, and whenever a routine that used to work stops working. Treat the result as a description of your skin now, not a label for life.
Mistakes that make any type worse
- Over-cleansing. Washing more than twice a day, scrubbing, or using very hot water strips the barrier. The AAD advises washing up to twice a day and after sweating.
- Skipping moisturizer because skin is oily. Dehydrated oily skin is common; a light moisturizer often helps.
- Too many actives. One at a time.
- Too little sunscreen. Most people apply far less than the amount used in SPF testing.
- Picking and squeezing. It prolongs breakouts and can leave marks and scars.
When to see a dermatologist
See a dermatologist if acne is painful or leaves scars, if over-the-counter products haven't helped after two to three months, if redness and stinging are persistent, or if a rash, a changing mole or a sore that doesn't heal appears. A professional can also tell apart conditions that look like a "skin type", such as rosacea, eczema or seborrheic dermatitis.
Sources
- American Academy of Dermatology, "How to pick the right moisturizer for your skin" (skin types), AAD, consulted October 2026.
- American Academy of Dermatology, "Face washing 101" and "How to apply sunscreen", AAD, consulted October 2026.
- American Academy of Dermatology, "Acne: tips for managing", AAD, consulted October 2026.
- US Food and Drug Administration, "Sunscreen: How to Help Protect Your Skin from the Sun", FDA, consulted October 2026.
Routines by skin typeOily and acne-prone skin
Benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid and adapalene, used gently, with a light moisturizer and daily sunscreen.
Routines by skin typeA routine for dry skin
Humectants, emollients and occlusives in plain words, and the dermatologists' habits that do most of the work.
Routines by skin typeA routine for sensitive skin
Stinging, redness and reactions: a minimal routine, the usual suspects on labels, and when it isn't 'just sensitive'.